This diligent author has
returned to attention, discussing in Harper’s
Magazine “My Life as a Terrorist” in September 2013. That essay documents
his discovery of his FBI file from the mid-1990s through the next decade, with
its informant’s claim that William T. Vollmann might match the profile of the
Unabomber, and another that he might be an anthrax suspect. I had set the
magazine aside in my to-read pile.
Two months later, I saw
a New York Times piece on Vollmann’s
cross-dressing as “Dolores”. Minutes before, I had received an e-mail about my
review [on
Amazon] of his 2005 National Book Award-winning novel Europe Central. An hour previous I had
been staring at my bookcase. I’d been meaning to pick up again at page 123--and
this time, twenty years after I had bought a first edition of that book as soon
as it was published, to finish--his saga Fathers
and Crows, about the Jesuit incursions into Canada during the seventeenth
century; a recent trip through Québec had revived my interest. Culture clashes,
progress and tradition, nature and exploitation, violence and endurance: these
themes characterize Vollmann’s concerns.
Three reminders of
Vollmann (all before noon the same day) had caught my attention, too. First, I
read the Harper’s article; Vollmann
mentions his scrutiny by those he calls the “Unamericans”. The New Haven FBI, while
hunting down Vollmann's supposedly anti-capitalist, pro-Iroquois sympathies had
noted, perhaps ruefully, how Fathers and
Crows was, as the author himself acknowledged, “his most difficult work”.
Vollmann sympathizes. That was in the mid-1990s. More Federal surveillance
followed, via an informant he nicknames “Ratfink”. Crossing the Mexican border
in 2002 and 2005, both times with women of Middle Eastern origins, Vollmann and
his companions were delayed by U.S. agents for what appeared then inexplicable
rationales. These perplexing scenarios appear, within the limited understanding
Vollmann possessed before he received the 294 pages released to him under the
Freedom of Information Act from his 785-page file under “review”, within his
book reviewed by me here.
For, since the
Unabomber’s apprehension and the post-9/11 anthrax scare, more of Vollmann’s “difficult
works” have appeared, one of which, his latest large tome to date, came out in 2009.
It’s a report from a region closer to my home than the wilds of French Canada. As
his run-ins with the Feds demonstrate, issues of sovereignty and threat, terror
and capitalism, continue to dominate not only his texts but his life, For, roaming
a harsh domain a few hours from Los Angeles, Vollmann had, in thorough and very
dense, dogged style, spent a long time amassing information and experiences for
another long book.
It’s an effort to pick
up this weighty tome on Imperial County, in content and heft. Sections ramble
as a massive compilation on purportedly a single subject. Similar criticisms were
aimed at Moby-Dick. Vollmann digs
deep in 1100 pages (the paperback reprint excises some hardcover endnotes),
annotated with dissertation-level documentation. This tribute to the overlooked
Southeastern (rather than scrutinized Southern) California stands as a
leviathan of fact and lore.
Vollmann brings his
research and his passion to this idiosyncratic, erudite, restless investigation.
The tone can be personal, with detours into his own breakup with his
girlfriend, his past travels, or academic, with eye-glazing statistical
accumulation. He passes Palm Springs to beyond the Mexican frontier, the
glaring desert, lake basin, and mountains called Imperial, the “entity” beyond its
square county borders. This block of the Golden State’s rarely promoted. It’s known
for irrigated croplands, a saline Salton Sea far below sea level, and outmanned
attempts to shut the border. Vollmann spends the first decade of this century
wandering, talking (often with an interpreter), and boating (up the polluted
New River) its dessicated, wet, and barren corners.
At first sight it
“unimpressed me as hot, flat, muted and dull”. (302) He struggles to understand
it as he does a Mark Rothko painting, rather than an Ansel Adams
representational photo landscape. This dexterity typifies his eclectic, smart,
and unpredictable approach.
The book opens with him
accompanying a Border Patrolman in 1999, as Vollmann explains that “whether the
laws which made them illegal from working on American soil were good or bad,
and they were probably (so I suspected even then, and now I am sure) the
latter,” the officer’s “mandate was to prevent illegal entry, a necessary labor
in and of itself, because any country unable to control its borders cannot
adequately enforce nor even define itself”. (18) He sides, as in his sprawling fiction
roaming time and space, and his prolific journalism from war zones and among
prostitutes, with the poor and the marginalized, but he tries to remain fair to
all he meets, even as he confesses his prejudice, or tolerance.
This patient attitude
makes him an inviting companion. You’ll sign on for the long haul. In a place
where summer may pass 120 F, reality can brutalize. “Why be exposed to the
searing eye in the sky? Whatever doesn’t hide gets half-bleached, half-effaced,
like the lettering on the welcome-signs of those visionary cities around the
Salton Sea. Is that convenience store closed? To find out, it’s necessary to
press one’s nose against its dark-glazed windows. That’s why the everydayness
of Imperial is a mystery.”(54)
Gradually the narrative brings
you from Spanish and pioneer days to a surprising origin for the county. In
1907, an accidental diversion of the Colorado River flooded the inland soil,
far from the usual riparian shore. Channeled by this deluge into an ancient dry
lake, the Salton Sea filled in. For a while it promised fishing and boating,
marketed as such in the era of the Rat Pack and the Space Age. I can attest
that around the sea, subdivided streets are named after the rockets and
astronauts of the early NASA era.
Now that sea ebbs,
emitting its stench from thousands of dead fish, as scavenger birds hover over
its waters and its shore reveals millions of tiny fish bones, ground up by
erosion. Here and there, decaying wharves provide an ironic commentary on what
fifty years ago was marketed to such buyers as my father-in-law as lots near or
on a then-sparkling desert sea. I recently visited the one my wife’s father
bought decades before: it is a dirt square surrounded by others under a harsh
horizon, but a few plots now feature modest, beige stucco homes matching the
bleak terrain. Purchasers from Baja California apparently have taken advantage
of cheap land and the drop in demand after the recession, despite the
inhospitable weather and saline smells that dominate Salton City’s forlorn
tracts much of the time.
After all, Mexicali
looms not far away, south of the border with Calexico, both cities luring
campesinos. Many immigrants to this region a century ago were Chinese. Vollmann
searches Mexicali’s “Chinese” tunnels; an amazing subplot sustains for seventy
pages a sampler of his investigation. As with his writing, he rejects editors.
He crams all his research in. He recounts natives, missionaries and Mexican
colonizers, agricultural syndicates and land-boom capitalists, white ranchers,
and especially today’s migrant workers, legal and illegal crossers: both
legions confront those guards from both nations who patrol the militarized
border.
This panorama can overwhelm
even a sympathetic reader. A chapter titled “Warning of Impending Aridity”
emerges early on, as Vollmann heaps up data “about a hot sad place when my life
was draining away and everything felt stale” (103). But what does it all add up
to? He hesitates to accept that “Imperial remains unknowable”, yet he insists
that “Imperial remains unknown.” (98) He confesses: “my ignorance of Imperial
has filled a long book”. (99)
Yet, this volume records
an invaluable compendium about Imperial County and its vicinity. Livelier at
least than a hundred professorial
monographs, a first-person perspective energizes much of this arrangement. Its
story turns poignant: Vollmann tells of his break-up near Indio with his
girlfriend, and how he sees the entity through her eyes as well as the
now-lonely views he must carry with him alone, when he then returns to the
scenes they once loved together. “It was because she took such pleasure in
Imperial that I began to write this book. In my mind’s sad confusion after she
was gone, I could not distinguish, much less define, any Imperial that did not
include her.” (111)
He sides with the
underdog, the down and out. As in his other books, he journeys with what used
to be called hoboes and what are still called whores. He praises American
efficiency while he accepts his inherent expectation of privilege by way of his
fair skin. However, his encounters with blacks, Indians, Indios, Chinese, Mexicans,
and combinations thereof complicate facile delineations of equating complexion
with status. These meetings, as his book’s structure incorporates them, follow
discovery and precede subdivision. The frontier daunts every human who faces
it. Vollmann submits to an easy metaphor despite its neatness: “I felt hollowed
out, ready to cross the border from life to death, from the urgent color and
filth of Mexicali to the museum called Calexico, whose regular sidewalks empty
long before dark.” (298)
Beauty endures on both
sides, often in what has been abandoned or become enigmatic in an American (and
increasingly Mexican) rush to profit, plow up or over, and obliterate. He
favors recital of what he gleans from public records, newspapers, interviews,
and photos. From the mundane comments of those in Imperial before him, he
embeds a few sayings until they either numb you by this trope or convince you
of their demotic inevitability, as even the fonts change and the italicized
quotes hammer away at your attention span. His prose for long intervals prefers
information to description, so when Vollmann depicts a scene, its sensations
after so many melon production reports or cotton baron imbroglios may jolt you.
He scrambles around
figures scratched into desert rocks centuries ago: “In a swirling rocky hole
amidst the open golden shadows on the rock are pale red hoops, nested circles,
waves, infinity signs, insectoid and humanoid figures scratched into the dark
shiny rock, and perhaps it would be worth the effort of a lifetime to
understand the female figure with golden vegetation lunging below her, sun
gilding the top of her shadowed rock; from her, one clambers down past spirals
and leaves, sun and white-pebbled pavement.” (618) Far from factories and pollution,
Vollmann rediscovers traces of Imperial’s past peoples.
This narrative moves
fitfully. I wanted far more on topics and places that he skims over or never
mentions. Nothing on the globally-known music festival that recently jams
Coachella Polo Grounds. The “corrections industry”, as prisons loom to provide
jobs and generate malls, gains all of two sentences. Soldiers on duty, dirt
bikers, desert hikers, the Chocolate Mountains, and the sand dunes earn scant
or no inclusion compared to the constant presence of the border, its chemical
effluents and fearsome maquiladoras,
and Baja California. Despite their formidable southern tug, I felt that Imperial’s survey could have covered
more topography, and also could have ventured farther north within the county more
often. Los Angeles sprawl grabs a starring role; this book needed more on Imperial’s
bit players, from northern edges nearer Palm Springs, Indian casinos, and the transition
zone between the Mojave and the Sonoran deserts.
Vollmann inserts a
“Pleasure Map of Imperial County” from 1967 (much clearer than his own cocktail
napkin-sized sketches of the region), full of tiny clip art figures. Its
largest typeface warns of a “Naval Air-to-Ground Gunnery Range”. That’s never
discussed, nor will you find any detail on Slab City and Glamis, which attract
thousands of snowbirds and off-roaders each winter. The promises on the
pleasure map for rockhounds hunting petrified palm or oyster beds or gold get
little attention; the burgs of Niland and Calipatria and Westmorland languish.
Salton City’s chapters appear shallow, while the ruins of Bombay Beach and its
three-hundred holdouts deserved a chapter or two. After all, similarly misfit
photographers, filmmakers, and artists have been attracted for decades now to the
Salton Sea’s hardscrabble enclaves.
A few errors slipped in.
In spite of attention to copy that inserts footnotes for interpolated words by
the author into transcriptions, and [sic] after misspellings in documents,
Vollmann adds his own typos, if relatively few over so long a manuscript. I
found five places needing correction, and these were mainly due to my local
knowledge; others with awareness of other areas may find more. Collis P. Huntington’s
first name is given twice without the double letter. Richard Diebenkorn’s Ocean
Park studio would have been in Santa Monica, not Venice. Echo Park’s boundary
with Silverlake gets crossed a few sentences too soon. Vollmann cites a source
about a “ten mile” distance for a Spanish irrigation canal connecting Redlands
with San Gabriel. This falls far short of the mileage between these two cities;
perhaps the Asistencia San Bernardino near present-day Redlands was meant, for
that supported faraway Mission San Gabriel? He also mixes up the Feather River
closer to his home in Sacramento with whatever concrete channel (once the Santa
Ana River, in fact) trickles into Corona’s exurbia at Prado Dam.
Inevitably perhaps, such
minor distractions matter little given the life’s work that for many authors
less prolific this compilation would be; Vollmann has amassed a massive book
while preparing texts even longer over his twenty-five-year career. He loves to
accumulate data, but he also longs to make it matter. He connects his life, or
lets us see fragments, as when he and his then-girlfriend are sequestered by
Operation Gatekeeper. We never know why. (And until Vollmann looked at his FBI
file, he did not, either.) This adds tension. He makes the border matter. After
I read this, I found myself cutting grape bunches unable to shake what I had
learned about those who stoop in the heat to grab this fruit to send on to me.
Vollmann’s works often
bring him in, half-disguised in his fiction or in his journalism, as a
participant-observer. Regarding his well-documented immersion among those who
sell their bodies, some lament Vollmann’s bluntness when it comes to
prostitution. There’s little in this book on the actual sex industry along the
border. A pair of quotes that explicitly make metaphorical connections between
the landscape and a streetwalker appeared almost demure, barely noticeable
amidst this bulk. “Progress is the delicious Mexicali whore who’s just had a
happy orgasm with her hand in your hair and your head between her legs; when
it’s your turn, and the condom breaks.” (802) Vollmann’s restraint heightens
his sporadic applications of a bolder image within statistics, names, dates,
and eagerly assertive typefaces.
That passage about
progress goes on another sentence, within a chapter on the demise of the Inland
Empire, once as fertile as Imperial, now a stretch of endless tract homes over
streets named for demolished orchards. As one who grew up next to one of the
last lemon groves in Los Angeles County, on its far-eastern border, I found
this saga of the suburbanization of the Inland Empire painful to relive. As the
beige stucco, red-tile tracts, and big-boxes now stretch nearly non-stop down
the interstate past the casinos and resorts to Indio, it seems that in a few
years, even the salty declivity will fill with housing.
This sprawl inches into
the entity. Water rights loom in the next section, as Los Angeles and San Diego
demand more of the Colorado River. America imports crops from Mexico, and that
nation wants its water. Mexicali’s demographic boom dwarfs Imperial County, and
rivals the growth in Southern California, Arizona, and Nevada. Artificial lakes
in Las Vegas and a hundred golf courses in the resorts around Palm Springs
remind Westerners of the odd tradeoffs between recreation and agriculture,
residences and resources, in this arid, drought-ridden territory.
Few Americans not lured
here by cotton or melons or migrant labor have come here to settle, south of
the air-conditioned resorts. Vollmann visits Leonard Knight, a transplant and a
local character who’s painted Salvation Mountain with bible slogans and bright
images. Vollmann notes: “Up close, it became the world; a few steps away, it
began to resolve itself into the puny production of a single human being.
Nearly as foolish as my own attempt to express Imperial in a book”, but both attempts
leave their mark. (1033) After some laconic, heartfelt, and passionate prose
about the fate of this land that the Pleasure Map called “the West’s Favorite
Sun and Air”, Vollmann muses again about water, population, immigration, and the
relentless pressure to plow over thirsty fields under sea level, to send river
water to suburban lawns.
Vollmann concludes after
over eleven-hundred pages: “Nothing can touch this marriage of land and sky, of
heat and salt, this hammer and anvil, this procreating couple whose only child
is a plain which unlike a rainforest, an empire or a work of art can outlast
anything the planet itself can, anything, even human beings even water or
waterlessness; and if, God forbid, Imperial itself does someday get riddled
with cities, its character will remain almost unaffected; it will go on and on,
true to itself, long after such temporary superficialities as ‘the U.S.A’ and
‘Mexico’ have become as washed out as old neon signs in the searing daylight of
Indio.” (1120) In spite of the size of this study, this chronicle does
not begin to exhaust this flat entity; that remains a wonder.
(This appeared slightly edited in PopMatters 11/25/13: “In 'Imperial' Vollmann Struggles to Understand the
Salton Sea as He Would a Mark Rothko Painting.” In shorter and altered form to Amazon US 11-17-13)